A rugby ball loses air for three reasons: air slowly seeps through the bladder material, the valve is worn or damaged, or there is a puncture in the inner bladder. In most cases the fix is simple: top it up, swap the valve, or patch the bladder. Only when the ball is genuinely past it does replacing it make more sense than fixing it. This article breaks down each cause and tells you exactly what to do about it.
How a rugby ball is built
Worth knowing before you start looking for the problem. A rugby ball has four layers: the inner bladder, a lining, a winding, and the outer casing. The bladder is the actual air chamber, made from butyl rubber or latex. The valve sits inside the bladder and pokes through the outer casing to the outside.
Butyl holds air much better than latex. Latex gives a slightly livelier feel but goes flat faster. The RAM Gripper 2.0 and the RAM Squad training ball both use a butyl bladder, as does the Victor 2.0 match ball. That keeps the pressure stable, even when the ball sits unused for a few weeks.
Cause 1: Air seeps through the bladder
This is the most normal cause and it does not mean anything is wrong with your ball. Even a perfect bladder lets a tiny amount of air through over time. You cannot stop it. With a butyl bladder you might lose around 0.05 to 0.10 bar per week. With latex it happens faster.
This is not a fault. It is just maintenance, same as pumping up your bike tyres now and then.
Check your ball's pressure every week or two. The right pressure for a rugby ball is 0.67 to 0.70 bar (9.5 to 10.0 PSI) for match use. A needle pressure gauge costs next to nothing and gives you a reading in ten seconds.
Cause 2: The valve is damaged or worn
The valve is the weakest point on any ball. If it is cracked, sitting crooked, old, or has dirt in it, the ball will lose air faster than it should. Easy way to check: inflate the ball and press a bit of saliva or soapy water onto the valve. If bubbles appear, that is where the leak is.
How to replace a valve
- Let the ball go completely flat through the valve.
- Use a valve needle to lever the old valve out carefully.
- Push the new valve straight in with the needle until it sits fully in place.
- Inflate to the right pressure and check for leaks again.
Always use a wet pump needle. A drop of water or saliva on the needle before you push it in prevents valve damage. Inserting a dry needle is the most common way valves get wrecked.
Cause 3: There is a puncture in the bladder
Valve is fine but the ball still goes flat quickly? Then the problem is in the bladder itself. That can happen from a sharp object on the pitch, too much pressure over time, age, or just bad luck.
To check: inflate the ball and rub soapy water all over the outside. Bubbles appearing somewhere other than the valve mean there is a hole in the bladder. You can also spot a bladder puncture by how fast the ball goes down. Flat in a few hours or a day is not normal air loss, that is a leak.
Repair or replace the bladder
- Deflate the ball completely.
- Carefully open the seam on the outer casing, starting at the valve end.
- Pull the bladder out, find the leak with soapy water and patch it with a rubber repair patch. Or put in a new bladder.
- Put it all back together, close the seam, and inflate to the right pressure.
On an old ball with a lot of sessions behind it, buying a new one is often the smarter move. For daily use on any surface, both the RAM Gripper 2.0 and the RAM Squad training ball give you solid pressure and a reliable feel straight away.
Cause 4: Cold and heat both affect pressure
Air contracts in the cold and expands in the heat. Leave your ball outside overnight in winter and it will feel noticeably softer in the morning. Bring it indoors and it pumps itself up a bit. Not a leak, just physics.
| Situation | What happens to pressure | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Ball moved from warm to cold | Pressure drops noticeably | Top up just before use |
| Ball moved from cold to warm | Pressure rises | Check it does not go too high |
| Stored in a cold car or shed | Consistently lower pressure | Always check before training or a match |
| Left in a hot car in summer | Pressure spikes | Store somewhere cool, do not over-inflate |
Cause 5: Over-inflating or under-inflating
Over-inflating is one of the most common mistakes. When the pressure is consistently too high, the bladder stretches and the material weakens. A rock-hard ball also feels wrong to pass and hurts to catch. Too soft is just as bad: the ball deforms with every kick and pass, which puts extra stress on the seams.
| Pressure | Value | What you notice |
|---|---|---|
| Too low | Below 0.60 bar | Soft, deforms on kicks, hard to pass accurately |
| Right (match) | 0.67 to 0.70 bar | Firm, good passing feel, kicks well |
| Right (training) | 0.62 to 0.68 bar | Slightly softer, fine for skills sessions |
| Too high | Above 0.75 bar | Rock hard, painful to catch, bladder wears faster |
Cause 6: Damage to the outer casing
If the outer casing splits or cracks, moisture gets in and attacks the bladder over time. You see this more on balls that have been used a lot on artificial turf, because that surface is rougher than grass. A rubber outer casing like on the RAM Gripper 2.0 handles that much better than leather or synthetic casings.
How fast should a ball lose pressure?
| How fast does it go flat? | What it most likely is | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Flat within a few hours | Big bladder puncture or major valve fault | Check the valve, test the bladder with soapy water |
| Flat within a day | Small bladder leak or damaged valve | Soapy water test on both valve and bladder |
| Noticeably soft within a week | Worn valve or latex bladder | Check the valve, top up regularly |
| Slowly softer over weeks | Normal air seepage through the material | Just top it up, nothing wrong |
Which pump should you use?
A bicycle pump with a needle adapter works fine. Always use a pressure gauge with it, because without one you can easily over-inflate. Skip the electric compressors designed for car tyres, they build pressure too fast and are too rough for the lower pressures a rugby ball needs.
How to store your ball so it stays at pressure longer
- Store the ball at room temperature. A cold shed or car boot drains the pressure out of it.
- Keep it away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Heat breaks down rubber.
- If you are not using the ball for a while, let some air out first. Around 0.40 to 0.50 bar keeps the bladder in shape without unnecessary tension.
- Store it dry. Moisture working its way through the casing to the bladder speeds up wear.
- Do not throw the ball loose in a bag with boot studs or metal buckles. They scratch and puncture.
When do you just buy a new ball?
Repairing stops making sense when the bladder has already been patched but still goes flat quickly, the valve has been replaced but the problem comes back, the outer casing is so worn the bladder has no protection, the ball visibly deforms during normal use, or the ball smells damp or mouldy. At that point moisture has gotten inside and the ball is done.
A new RAM rugby ball gives you solid pressure and a reliable feel in your hands from day one.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I top up my rugby ball?
With normal use: check the pressure every week or two and top up when needed. If you use the ball every day, check it weekly. And always check before a match, even if it looks fine.
Can I use a regular bicycle pump?
Yes, as long as you have a needle adapter. Always use a pressure gauge with it. Without one you can easily over-inflate, which damages the bladder over time.
My ball loses a lot of air every week but I cannot see any damage. What now?
Start at the valve. Put soapy water on it and look for bubbles. If the valve is fine, inflate the ball and put it in a bucket of water. Bubbles show you where the puncture is. No bubbles but still going flat quickly? It might be a latex bladder that naturally loses air faster than butyl.
Can I repair a rugby ball without opening it up?
Only if the leak is at the valve. You can replace the valve without opening the ball. For a bladder puncture you need to open the seam and take the ball apart.
Is it normal for a new ball to lose some air too?
Yes. A brand new ball sometimes needs a few inflation cycles before the valve is properly seated. Pressure loss can be a bit higher in the first couple of weeks. If it is still going flat quickly after two weeks, contact the supplier.
RAM Rugby helps you get more out of every ball
A ball that keeps going flat right before training or a match is just annoying. We build our balls with butyl bladders that hold their pressure and valves that can take regular use.
- RAM Gripper 2.0 training ball: rubber outer casing, strong butyl bladder, built for hard use on any surface
- RAM Squad training ball: solid club and squad ball, reliable pressure season after season
- RAM Victor 2.0 match ball: calibrated for match performance, holds pressure in all conditions
- Practical advice on maintenance, storage and repair
Not sure if your ball is worth fixing or if you need a new one? Drop us a message and we will sort it out with you.
View the RAM Rugby ball range